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Orchard Layout
Laying out an orchard on level land is a simple matter of establishing a straight baseline, usually next to a fence or roadway. Then, lines at right angles to the baseline are established at both ends of the plot and one or two places in the middle. An easy way to establish these angles is to use three ropes whose lengths are in a 3:4:5 proportion (based on the Pythagorean theorem). For example, use ropes 30, 40, and 50 feet long. Put the 40-foot rope along the baseline, then place the 30-foot rope at approximately a right angle, and, finally, close the triangle with the 50-foot rope (Figure 1-2). Adjust the 30-foot segment in either direction so that it just touches the end of the 50-foot piece. This ensures that the 30-foot section is at a right angle to the baseline.
Next, place stakes along the baseline and the right angle line for sighting to extend these lines. From this point on, any desired row and tree spacing can be established using a tape measure or knotted rope to measure off the proper intervals. If an auger is to be used, place a handful of lime to mark the spot where each tree is to be planted.
An alternative method is to use a tree planter to cross-hatch the ground. This method requires a skillful tractor operator who can drive a straight line over a large area. A single shank is attached to the tractor. The driver then lays out all the rows and finishes cross-hatching by going from side to side at a distance based on the desired within-row spacing.
A third method is used on sloping land. Trees are planted beginning at the steepest point of the field, and rows follow the contour of the land (Figure 1-3). This method requires the use of a surveyor’s level and rod. Plant the first row at the highest elevation and stake it out level (i.e., make all points on the line the same elevation, A to C). Next, find the steepest slope along this row (along the line A to B) and measure the minimum distance between rows. From that point lay out the next row on a level line as before. As one moves from the steepest slope to less-steep slopes, the rows become wider apart. Wherever the distance between two adjacent rows becomes twice the minimum distance, lay out a short contour row between them from that point to the end of the plot (squares marked D).
To plant trees, you can use either an auger or a tree planter. If you use an auger, take care to prevent “glazing” the sides of the hole. Glazing can occur if you dig the holes when the soil is too wet. One remedy is to slice the edge of the hole with a shovel or pick. Another is to weld a steel tine onto the auger.
The most common mistake in using a tree planter is going too fast and failing to place the trees at the proper depth. Along with the tractor driver and the person on the planter, a third or fourth person should walk behind the planter to straighten up trees and adjust them to the proper depth. This can be done right after planting simply by pulling up or stepping down on the newly planted tree.
Determining the number of trees per acre in single-row plantings
The traditional method of determining the number of trees per acre (TPA) has been to multiply the in-row spacing by the between-row spacing and divide that number into the number of square feet in an acre (43,560 sq ft). Table 1-1 gives the TPA at various spacings for single-row orchards. To determine TPA, locate the desired or planned in-row spacing of trees on either the vertical or horizontal axis. Next locate the between-row spacing on the other axis. The number of trees per acre can be found at the intersection of the two spacings.
For example, if we want trees to be spaced 10 feet in the row with 18-foot between-row spacings, we would go down the lefthand column to 18 and follow across to where the 10-foot column intersects, and we find the TPA to be 242. (For information on bed systems, see Using Beds to Attain Higher-Density Orchards.)