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Vertical or French Axe
Developed in France, this system has generated interest among Pennsylvania growers. It differs from the trellis or slender spindle mainly in ultimate tree height. Trees in the French axe system are allowed to grow 10 to 14 feet tall, depending on the cultivar. The simplest way to picture this system is to consider a pole with short fruiting spurs.
Trees are planted closer together than in other systems. A critical point in establishing the French axe system is to immediately stake or tie the tree’s central axis the first year. Trees can be headed at planting to a height of 28 to 30 inches, but thereafter they are never headed. To achieve the narrowest tree, only a single upright-growing branch is left to grow during the first year. Variations to produce a wider tree permit weakgrowing horizontal branches to remain on the tree. Vigorous branches should be removed or tied down early in the season.
At planting
• Remove all scaffolds below 18 inches, flush to the trunk. Trees with fewer than three branches should be headed at 30 inches. Attach trees to the support system as soon as possible. Trees with three or more branches offer two options depending on the vigor of the scion and rootstock. Always remove any scaffolds that are more than one-half the diameter of the central trunk. The alternatives in order of low vigor to high vigor are:
• Option 1: Head leader 10 to 12 inches above the uppermost branch and do not head the side branches. Bend the side branches to horizontal by using weight string or elastics.
• Option 2: Do not head leader or side branches. This last option is best used when there are three to five good feathers (branches).
First growing season
• May: Remove the two or three buds that began to grow below the chosen leader if you headed the tree back at planting. Bend the side branches to horizontal by using weight string or elastics.
• June: Clothespin new shoots when they are as long as, or just longer than, the clothespin.
Second leaf
• If additional scaffolds are needed, score above desired buds in the late dormant season (4 to 6 weeks before bud break) or apply Promalin mixed with latex paint.
• Do not head the leader. If additional scaffolds are needed, notch above desired buds in the late dormant season (4 to 6 weeks before bud break) or apply Promalin mixed with latex paint.
• June: When 3 to 6 inches of new growth develops on shoots in the top half of the leader, pinch the new growth back by onethird their length. Position permanent scaffolds horizontally by using weights, elastics, or string. Position vigorous shoots below horizontal by means of weights, elastics, or string.
• July: Re-pinch all laterals as outlined above, as needed. If tree is vigorous, pinching the shoots a third time in August may be necessary.
Third leaf
• Do not head the leader. Tie down vigorous upright limbs below horizontal. Remove any side branches above the main scaffolds that are more than one-half the diameter of the central axis with a Dutch cut.
• June: When 3 to 6 inches of new growth has developed on shoots in the top third of last year’s central leader, pinch them back by one-third to one-half their length.
Fourth leaf
• Do not head the leader. Prune out overly vigorous limbs that are of no use.
• June/July: Position excessively vigorous limbs slightly below horizontal.
~OR~
• August: Summer prune, removing vigorous limbs, to maintain pyramid shape and improve light interception.
Fifth and succeeding years
• Do not head the leader. Shorten bottom tier scaffolds by pruning back to a side branch. If desired begin removing/renewing scaffolds by thinning out the one most vigorous limb in the bottom middle and top of the tree. Remove any side branches above the main scaffolds that are more than 1one-half the diameter of the central axis with a Dutch cut. Leave all weak fruiting wood. Shorten pendulant branches back to a more horizontal position. Summer prune as needed in August to maintain light interception.
Final leader height
• The ideal situation is that the leader will bend with a crop to restrict the tree height. This is termed the “crop and flop” method. However, in some cultivars the leader does not bend, and the tree continues to grow upward. If this occurs, you can cut the leader back to a lower more horizontal branch, but only do so after the upper portion of the tree has fruited.