Slender spindle

This system is suited for densities of 400 trees or more per acre. It requires a very dwarfing rootstock, some form of support, and early fruiting to restrict tree size. Since all pruning can delay the onset of fruit production, little or no pruning is done in the first few years. The overall shape of trees resembles that of the Christmas tree central leader. However, secondary and tertiary branches off the scaffolds are not created or maintained unless they are very weak-growing.

The ideal is to start with a well-branched, 1-year-old tree. At planting, remove only those branches lower than 18 inches. Heading should not be performed on any of the scaffolds. If the new tree is an unbranched or poorly branched whip, head the tree at 28 to 30 inches. Side shoots, however, should not be headed. Any vigorous branches that arise from the severe heading are then tied or weighed down during the early growing season to reduce their growth and encourage flowering. Failure to restrict the growth of these vigorous shoots in the first year will delay fruiting.

To control tree height and reduce growth, a strong, upward-growing branch should not be chosen as the central leader, but rather a less vigorous shoot tilted at an angle of 20 to 60 degrees above the horizontal. The effect is to create a zigzag central axis. This weaker lateral is tied to the support pole so that it becomes the new leader for that growing season. It is always important to keep the top of the tree subservient to the lower part. If the top becomes too vigorous, it will shade out the lower portions. All overly vigorous and vertical-growing shoots should be removed. When a branch becomes too long, a heading cut is made to a weak-growing branch or spur.

The following is a "cookbook" method on how to train and prune trees to a spindle system.

At planting

  • Remove all scaffolds below 18 inches, flush to the trunk. Trees with fewer than 3 branches should be headed at 30 inches and all feathers removed with a bevel or Dutch cut. Trees with 3 or more branches should be headed 12 inches above the top-most scaffold limb. Remove any feathers that are one-half or more the diameter of the central trunk. Attach trees to the support post or conduit as soon as possible.


First growing season

  • May/June: Select the most vigorous upright-growing shoot that develops below the headed leader. Remove the two or three competing buds below the chosen leader. Clothespin new shoots that will become future scaffolds or tie down existing shoots to a more horizontal position using string, elastics or weights.


Second leaf

  • Dormant: Head the central leader on a weak growing tree by removing one-half to one-third of previous year's growth. On very vigorous trees remove the leader and tie up a weaker leader from a branch below. Alternatively, vigorous leaders can be bent to a 90-degree angle or greater.
  • June/July: Remove two to three competing buds below the leader if the tree was headed in the dormant season. Tie developing leader to the support post. Position overly vigorous limbs and shoots horizontally with weights. Tie up scaffolds that may bend under weight of fruit. Remove any branch that is more than one-half the diameter of the central leader utilizing a Dutch cut.


Third leaf

  • Dormant: Head the central leader on weak growing trees by removing one-half to one-third of the previous year's growth. On vigorous trees remove the shoot and tie up a weaker leader from a branch below, or bend the leader over to 90-degree angle.
  •  June/July: Remove two to three competing shoots that broke below the leader if the tree was headed in the dormant season. Install clothespins to spread new developing side shoots. Remove any vigorous vertical growing shoots. Position overly vigorous limbs and shoots horizontally with weights. Tie up scaffolds that may bend under weight of fruit.


Fourth leaf

  • Dormant: Remove overly vigorous leaders, and replace each with a suitable side scaffold. Reduce the length of scaffold branches that do not appear capable of supporting a fruit crop by cutting back to a side branch.
  • August: Summer prune if necessary to maintain pyramidal shape and to encourage light interception. Remove vigorous upright growing shoots.


Fifth and succeeding years

  • Minimize winter pruning to renew vigorous scaffold limbs in the top half of the tree. Maintain tree height at 6 to 8 feet by cutting the leader to a weak side scaffold as needed to prevent excessive growth in the top of the tree. Remove pendulant branches and spur complexes by cutting to a more horizontal shoot or spur system. Shorten bottom tier scaffolds as needed to maintain fruit quality by pruning back to a side branch.
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